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For some, it conjures the image of sick days spent home from school. For others frat parties and keg stands. It’s also right at home in those all-American ‘90s buffets that used kale as decoration rather than food.
I am, of course, talking about Jell-O. For me, the jiggles of Jell-O remind me of all of those things — but it’s also an image of home and family. My Grandma Dawn (as she will introduce herself, no matter her relation to you) makes her signature Lime Jell-O Dessert each year. It’s a recipe that Grandma Dawn got from her mother-in-law, and it helped her stretch her dollars while providing her children a sweet treat. (We put the recipe at the end of this article if you want to try it yourself.)
“I do remember using Jell-O a lot when I got married in ‘63 and had three kids to feed, and we were trying to make something pretty,” Grandma Dawn told me. “You had to have the colors and stuff.”
She could dish up Jell-O for dessert after Hamburger Helper, another food item she chose for its convenience and affordability (one that’s making a comeback these days). And it’s not a coincidence: Jell-O has, for years, marketed itself to busy, working-class moms. But that wasn’t always the case. Before Jell-O brand gelatin came, well, just gelatin. One of the first recorded recipes for aspic, gelatin’s savory cousin, appeared in the late 1300s in the French cookbook “Le Viandier.”
Gelatin is derived from the structural protein collagen, which is found in the skins and bones of animals like pigs and cows. Those animal parts are boiled down until collagen can be extracted and formed into a gelatinous concoction. This process is incredibly time-intensive, though — it could take two days of work or longer to produce calf’s feet jelly, as it was called. Because it took so long to prepare, gelatin
was a dish reserved for the elites. And it would often be highly ornamental.
“That was a statement, just the way, if you bought a Porsche or a BMW today, or a Rolex watch, people would know you were rich,” explained Carolyn Wyman, the author of “Jell-O: A Biography.” But then came the Industrial Revolution, and with it, more industrialized foods. — like instant gelatin. |